The most beautiful parts of Ghana are not in Accra. I learned this on the first trip that I took out of the city to the Shai Hills nature reserve. This place has a taste of wilderness, somewhat hindered by the people-pleasing baboons that flock to the opening gates whenever there is a visitor. This is not the most beautiful spot in Ghana.
Ghana’s coastline is 539 kilometers long. Interestingly, it is the closest country to the “center” of the world, the coordinate of (0,0) which lies a few miles south of Ghana in the Gulf of Guinea. Because of its coast, Ghana is one of the most developed countries in Africa. It was colonized by the Portuguese in the 15th century and became West Africa’s primary trading post with Europe and America for gold, ivory, and slaves.
Through the country’s history, this early colonization and European influence has had tremendous implications. For example, the demographic layout of Accra developed because European soldiers preferred to live with other white people. They achieved this by expelling locals to neighborhoods such as Jamestown, which is now commonly known as the slum of the city.
Accra is located on the coast, but is not build upon this resource—rather than letting the town develop around the beach, Accra is a town with the beach in the background.
The background is breathtaking. An endless panorama of white sand spanning under salty winds from beyond the misty green-blue waves that crash onto shore. Vastness; no land until Antarctica lies ahead. The sand is grainy, the water temperate and tropical. This is the first time I have ever experienced ocean water that invites you warmly into its body, rather than freezing your extremities off before you wade halfway in.
The beaches in Accra are not the most beautiful. They are usually filled with litter and smells of burning trash. On Wednesday nights the two major beaches, Labadi and Toale, are transformed into loud parties of reggae and Rastas, locals and Obrunis alike dancing freely in the waves. Restaurants populate the beaches, serving delicious fare such as fried yams with spicy shiito sauce. These beaches are fun— destinations for a party or a day out with friends.
The most beautiful parts of Ghana are out of reach, secluded, sheltered from the grossness of city life and human habitation. On the coastline outside of Accra, there are beaches that are sequestered, nestled in rock formations and unfriendly terrain. They are perfectly pristine, in a way that envelops the wilderness of the coastline and the delight of the peaceful ocean. These beaches are the most beautiful parts of Ghana.
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